The Ghosts of Everest: The Authorised Story of the Search for Mallory and Irvine

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Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A. Johnson, Eric R. Simonson

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Pages: 208 (Paperback)

ISBN: 0330393790

Pub: Pan Books

Pub date: 2000-10-06

Amazon.co.uk Sales Rank: 83091

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Editorial Review:


It is one of the most famous and powerful stories of humanity pitting itself tragically against the elements. In 1924, when Mallory and Irvine set out to make history by reaching of the summit of Everest and become the first men to stand on the world's tallest mountain, their place in the history books was already assured. But then Odell, also climbing with them, saw the two vanish within 800 feet of the summit--and they were never seen again. Ever since, many have wondered what really took place in the rarefied air at 28,000 feet. Did they in fact reach the summit and perish on the way down? Or were Hilary and Norgay the first men to reach the summit three decades later?

In April 1999, the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition team set out to retrace the steps of the 1924 expedition. Their aim was to find out the truth behind the many theories about what happened on that fateful first climb. The Ghosts of Everest describes in carefully researched detail the two expeditions, weaving together both climbs with blow- by-blow accounts of the challenges and dangers encountered. Combining a lucid text with archive photographs of the original expedition and breathtaking colour shots of the new climb, this is a fascinating book of considerable power. --Barry Forshaw

Reader Reviews:


4/5 stars

A haunting story (0/0 people found this helpful)

"Ghosts of Everest" is a story that stays with you long after you have finished the book. The narrator takes a while to get going and the initial chapters dwell perhaps a little too much on the difficulties that the 1999 expedition had to get going and their squabbles with the BBC but then the story really takes off and flows.

I love the juxtaposition of the two expeditions - on the same course but separated by 75 years. It is left for the reader to contrast the 1924 British explorers (with their hob-nailed boots, puttees, gabardines, hand-written notes, Kendall mint cake, quails in foie gras, stiff upper lips and vintage champagne) with their (mainly) US counterparts in 1999 (e-mails, radios, Starbuck's sponsorship, Easy Cheese, Snickers, down suits and Goretex and laid-back Seattle philosophies) - and of course to compare the dedication and spirit of both teams.

The book ascends to a climax and the final pages of the last chapter, "Notes on an Envelope", which speculate on one possible scenario of Mallory and Irvine's last moments, are incredibly moving.

My only minor niggles with the book, apart from the slow start, are that the paperback version that I have has some typos among the photos that are a little irritating. In addition, we have a US American author writing for an international audience so lengthy explanations of "Bovril", "Bully Beef" and "Kendall's (sic) mint cake" are necessary!

5/5 stars

A superb read (1/1 people found this helpful)

This book is excellent. I have been veguely interested in the Mallory / Irvine attempt of 1924, and bought this on an impulse. It is meticulously researched, objectively written, and yet retains amid the rigorous factual content and analysis a compassion and a heart. Where it would be easy to concentrate on the possibility (quite high, it seems) of a successful summit attampt 29 years before Hillary & Tenzing, the writer and contributors give equal weight to the opposite.

Just ordered the 2001 sequel, and look forward to it immensely.

4/5 stars

DID THEY OR DIDN'T THEY?... (9/9 people found this helpful)

This is a beautifully and lavishly illustrated, textually rich book. Its heavy, glossy pages demand the reader's undivided attention and are sure to enthrall all mystery lovers, Everest aficionados, nostalgia junkies, history buffs, and climbing enthusiasts. This book is sure to provide the reader with many hours of enjoyment.

The book chronicles the search for George Mallory and Andrew Irvine by the 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition. It juxtaposes the dramatic turn of events during their expedition with those of the 1924 British Everest Expedition which saw Mallory and Irvine attempt a summit climb, only to disappear into the mists of Everest, never to be seen again. It makes for a spell binding narrative, as past events are woven through present day ones.

The 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition was a meticulously well prepared and well organized venture. With its discovery of George Leigh Mallory's body, it enjoyed much success. The research and analysis that went into its ultimate, well thought out conclusions were comprehensive and fascinating, with its strong reliance upon forensics and deductive reasoning. Their reconstruction of Mallory's and Irvine's last climb is riveting. Unfortunately, the ultimate question still remains unanswered. Did they or did they not reach the summit of Mount Everest back in 1924?

The beautiful photographs of the personal effects found upon Mallory's person underscore a certain poignancy about the discovery of Mallory's well preserved body. The photographs which memorialize this discovery are amazingly lovely and tasteful, considering its subject matter, and hauntingly illustrate the finality with which Everest may deal with mountaineers, no matter how accomplished.

The photographs also highlight how ill equipped for the harsh climatic conditions were the early Everest expeditions. It is amazing, and a credit to those early expeditioners' courage and fortitude, in braving such an inhospitable and harsh terrain with the inadequate clothing and equipment available to them at the time. Mallory and Irvine were certainly intrepid explorers!

This book is a fitting tribute to two men who sought to make a historic summit and, in their attempt, would forever be a part of Everest.

3/5 stars

Mystery solved? (2/2 people found this helpful)

I purchased this book on the back of the excellent TV documentary (shown earler this year on BBC2) made by the same expedition team and that's probably the main reason I'd only give 3 stars. It's difficult to re-create, in print, the same atmosphere of anticipation, tension and struggle in searching for a body at 26000ft in life threatening conditions. I was also a little disappointed in the quality and quantity of the pictures included; again, moving film conveys much more detail. Where the book did score was in it's detailed analyis of each possible scenario as to whether Mallory and Irvine could have reached the summit. Like all good mysteries, it will remain just that for the time being. In short, if you've not seen the film yet, I suggesting reading the book first rather than vice-versa. PS.After reading the book, you will wonder how the BBC managed to hang onto the film rights!!

5/5 stars

Excellent content, questionable layout of text and pictures (1/1 people found this helpful)

I work at a public library and have had this book brought to my attention as an excellent read. One patron, however, was very disappointed with how the text was layed out on the page...wide margins on one side with text placed too close to the binding for easy reading. In addition, the map on page 96 was very cumbersome to view as the spine of the book ran right through the middle, thereby obscuring the view of the picture. She was considering purchasing the book as a gift but decided against it for the above-mentioned reasons. She has sent a letter to the publisher detailing her concern over the book's layout.

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Categories

Amazon.co.uk places this book into the following categories:

Books -> Subjects -> Biography -> True Endurance & Survival
Books -> Subjects -> Biography -> General AAS
Books -> Subjects -> Sports, Hobbies & Games -> General
Books -> Subjects -> Sports, Hobbies & Games -> General AAS
Books -> Subjects -> Sports, Hobbies & Games -> Climbing & Mountaineering -> General AAS
Books -> Subjects -> Travel & Holiday -> Travel Writing
Books -> Subjects -> Travel & Holiday -> General
Books -> Subjects -> Travel & Holiday -> Countries & Regions -> Asia -> General AAS
Books -> Subjects -> Fiction -> General
Books -> Subjects -> Fiction -> General AAS
Books -> Refinements -> Language (feature_browse-bin) -> English
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Books -> Refinements -> Format (binding_browse-bin) -> Paperback
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